India has exotic traditions and a heterogeneous culture which are echoed in their glorious fabrics. Even up to this day, you can feel and see it even in their modern wardrobes. But how much do you really know about India’s textile traditions? To enlighten you on the history behind Indian textile, here are some facts that you should know. 1. DyeThe use of madder dye is one of the distinctive features of an Indian textile. Madder originates from the roots of “chay”, a herbaceous climbing plant. When grown in a soil rich in calcium, this plant can produce a glowing, intense red dye.
Another renowned natural dye of India is violet-blue indigo in color sourced from a leguminous plant. You can still see it in today’s ensembles like this dyed bisht denim dress. Blue dye was highly associated with India so that ancient Greeks assigned the name indikos or “indigo” originating from the word “India.” The greatest challenge of dyeing a cloth is in fixing the color. The secret of Indian dyers lies in their use of mordants which has led them to master the creation of bright, lasting naturally dyed fabrics. 2. Cotton and SilkBoth of these raw materials have always been linked with Indian fabrics. This is because for centuries, India had been a major supplier of cotton to the world until industrialization altered how it’s made and sold. The oldest cotton bolls estimated to be about 7,000 years old were found in a cave in the Tehuacán Valley in Mexico. In India, however, the cultivation of cotton is said to have started at around 2500 BCE, and it is still a vital part of the country’s economy today. In fact, the first cotton fabric in the world was created and worn in the Indus River Valley (Indian Subcontinent). The fabric became so popular that even Roman emperors began to wear cotton as it was (and is) light and comfortable. The semi-domesticated and wild silks also continue to deliver a wide range of fabrics and yarn for local use. 3. Non-stitchedIn ancient India, people used to wear clothes without stitching even when they knew how to. They didn’t really have garments that were stitched together because most articles of clothing were ready-to-wear. Examples of these are the sari, turban, dhoti and scarf. 4. WeaveEvery part of India has their own tradition of weaving, but Gujarat was the center of this craft for over 500 years. When Gujarati weavers started to migrate elsewhere, their weaving technology and techniques spread all over the country. The simplest style is called “plain weave” wherein the weaver runs a weft thread under and over a fixed set of warp threads evenly. Complex weaves were derived from this basic style. Weaving looms in India varied from the simplest back-strap loom to complex draw-looms. The use of these looms started to decline during the 19th century, which marked the rise of the mechanized Jacquard loom. 5. Sari and CholiIn earlier times, the sari was worn without the petticoats and blouse. They became a trend because the great poet Rabindranath Tagore’s wife wore them a lot. Nowadays, though, due to various influences such as Bollywood fashion, the sari is often worn with a choli or blouse. The choli, on the other hand, is a tight-fitting blouse that is usually worn underneath the sari. In the olden days, these blouses weren’t stitched at all. In fact, the garment was merely fastened at the back with a knot. Today, you can see choli being worn in different styles — from tube tops to halters. 6. EmbroideryIndia’s embroidery is almost as famous as its dyeing and weaving. Particular regional styles which used various materials and stitches evolved over the centuries. But the area most linked with embroidery was Northwestern India. In the 17th century, Gujarati ari or hook embroidery was highly valued by both European customers and the Mughal court. Other exceptional embroidery styles include the phulkari from Punjab, chikan whitework from Lucknow, and kantha from Bengal. Indian professionals who specialize in embroidery stitch so fast that it’s nearly impossible to see which thread goes where with your eyes. India’s natural resources for decorating and making fabrics are unrivalled. Its diverse regions offer a wide range of natural dyes and plant fibers for everyone as well. Indeed, it’s no wonder that the country’s textile traditions continue to flourish even today. The next time you wear an outfit made of Indian textile, carry it with pride. You’re not simply wearing a stylish ensemble, you’re wearing history and culture. AUTHOR BIO Ethiopian-born and Dubai-based fashion designer Feiruza Mudessir discovered her curiosity to mix the traditional with contemporary at a young age, and this has become the trademark of her designs today. When you slip into one of Feiruza's creations, you can almost hear the rhythms of Africa, the beats of India and the vibrancy of Dubai - this distinctive and colourful mélange is just what Finchitua is about.
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